From Sandvikens Camping up to Grisslehamn the walk covers varied terrain along the Väddö coast with spectacular views over the Sea of Åland.
Old Grisslehamn was an important point on Queen Kristina’s Mail Road, which ran between Stockholm and Åland and further east from 1638. In the 17th century a post house was built here which was burnt by the Russians in 1719. A new one was built but when that burnt down it was replaced by a new post house in what is now Grisslehamn. Many people lost their lives rowing across the Sea of Åland to deliver the mail. In their memory the Postrodden race between Grisslehamn and Eckerö on Åland is held in June each year – a popular celebration as traditional wooden boats race across the sea.
In Mälbyhamn there used to be an iron pyrites mine and an iron ore mine, the oldest dating back about 400 years. Next to the trail, mine shafts can be seen, now filled withwater, and a circular track where horses were used to power the mining work. Mining, dating back to the Vasa period, stopped in practice in 1905 but remained in formal terms up until 1992. In Mälbyhamn there is a drinking water point.
The boulder field just north of Mälbyhamn was formed by the sea over millennia and rose several metres as
sea levels fell. It is of major geological value, so please don’t pick up any stones.
Edebyhamn and Havsängen offer a rolling landscape with forests interspersed with arable land, grazing land and small villages. Many holiday homes have been built along the coast. An area of limestone bedrock stretches from here up to Flisberget and Skottviken in the north. The limestone rocks have a flora all of their own, rich insect life and plenty of snakes!
Just south of Nothamn there is an old lime quarry with steep sides – a large marble quarry with many unusual minerals. The forest to the west is clearly affected by the high lime content in the rock and is very valuable in terms of nature conservation. The fishing village of Nothamn was the largest fishing centre on the Väddö coast. All the farmershere fished for herring with purse seines and set eel traps. Skottviken offers
the chance to walk along a wonderful sandy beach, while the bay overlooking the Fjällboholmar islands also boasts a beautiful beach with sand and rocks.
Tullviksbäcken nature reserve has two streams near the sea and is one of Sweden’s most important natural spawning grounds for sea trout. The forest nearest to the sea is thin and sparse, a beautiful area for walking. Tullviken bay is a delightful spot popular with sports fishermen and surfers, while Kvarnsand has spectacular views over the Sea of Åland. Here there’s a jetty with a ladder for swimming, a dry toilet, changing hut, campfire site and a car park.
Roslagsleden enters Grisslehamn along the shoreline beside the studio of artist and writer Albert Engström, perched on a rock overlooking the Sea of Åland. The studio is painted white facing the sea and red facing the land like a navigation mark. Why not stop off for a guided tour. On the way towards its final destination, the Albert Engström Museum, the trail passes Kafé Kalaset, a café in Albert Engstrom’s stables, open during the summer.
Accommodation can be found at Grisslehamn Gård B&B, Pensionat Solgården with cottages, Hotell Havsbaden and Spa, Grisslehamns Husvagnscamping with cottages and in a rural idyll at Mats Persgården in Tomta. More information is available from Tourist Information Centres.
Grisslehamn has a supermarket, a fishmonger’s, shops selling design and crafts, restaurants and cafés. Grisslehamn is also a flourishing fishing harbour and the home port of the Eckerö Line’s ferries
to Åland, if you’d like to continue walking European long distance path E6 to Kilpisjärvi in northern Finland.